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 Thanks goes to Jerry for this step by step procedure to clean the carburetor.
4. Unplug the choke wires at the bundle. Older bikes have two wire connectors and newer has one plastic type connector. They are the exact same assembly. If you are changing this unit, just crimp on two male connectors in its place. 5. Remove vacuum tube at intake manifold. You want this off to fill the carburetor when you reassemble it. 6. Completely remove the two 8 mm bolts attaching the carburetor to the intake. The shorter one goes away from the engine on the side of the choke. Do not put these in the wrong way. The longer one in front will crush the choke and ruin the carburetor. 7. When you remove the carburetor you will notice a fuel drain hose that goes through the plastic air cover about an inch and just points to the ground. This allows you to completely drain the carburetor and drop out any water that has accumulated. Pull it out with the carburetor. 8. Place the carburetor on a bench that is clean and its good practice to have a small plastic bowl or such to put parts in as you remove them. I always fill this with carburetor cleaner and it lets the parts soak while I work on the carburetor. 9. Unscrew the two short phillips head screws that attach the choke assy. pull the choke completely out and lay aside for now. Not in solvent. Its electrical and the solvent will ruin it. 10. Remove the two phillips head screws that attach the bowl to the bottom of the carburetor. Pull the bowl completely off and spray cleaner into it to remove any heavy deposits. Remove the hose and the drain screw completely. Set these parts in the bowl. From the bottom of the carburetor, unscrew the main jet using a small straight slot screwdriver. Place in bowl. Completely remove the idle screw and the airscrew that go into the side of the carburetor. Place these to soak. 11. Unscrew the phillips head screw that holds in the needle valve float and retaining pin. Place all these parts in the bowl to soak. 12. Completely clean the top part of the carburetor spraying cleaner into all the holes and tubes and surface area you can possibly see. Do not use safety pins needles hairpins paper clips etc in any hole or tube. These are precision machined and you are going to ruin them if you do. All ports are to be cleaned with carburetor spray and compressed air only. If you dont have access to a compressor for the air use canned air available at office supply or computer stores. Its expensive but better than trying to use a pin or something. If you have a problem getting cleaner to flow through any port just soak it a while longer. Dont rush. Everything should be cleaned at this point and ready for reassembly. 13. Place the fuel shutoff needle in the slot on the float and reinsert the pin that retains it. Carefully place the float and needle assembly in place and replace the fat headed screw that hold the retaining pin into place. Work the float up and down to make sure it doesnt stick. Turn the carburetor upside down and check the needle is seating when the float is about level with the bottom of the upper half of the carburetor. Do not apply pressure just let it seat itself. With the carburetor upside down if the float is higher than level you are running lean. Gently push down on float until it seats at level. The float is plastic but will bend at the tang where the needle valve goes into the float. If its too low that means youre running rich and you have to gently bend the tang back up. Just eyeball these settings they are important but not critical. You can measure if you want just refer to repair manual for specs. 14. Reinstall the main jet; make sure everything is entirely clean as you reassemble parts. Screw in snug but dont reef on it. Snug is fine. 15. Reinstall the air mix screw. Turn in until seated gently and then back it out one and seven eighths turn. 16. Reinstall the idle screw. Turn in until approx a quarter inch is visible as you look down into the barrel from the top of the carburetor. 17. Inspect the gasket that is around bowl. If it is torn or broken replace. Usually doesnt happen. They seem to last a long time. 18. Reinstall the drain screw and snug. Reinstall the drain hose on bowl. 19. Reinstall the bowl using the two phillips screws. Dont cross thread. This is aluminum and it gets destroyed easily. Snug but dont force. 20. Thoroughly spray the tip on the choke assy. clean off any residue. Check for continuity on the two wires of the choke. If there is an open the choke is bad. Again that doesnt happen very often either. 21. Reinstall the choke making sure the o-ring is in good condition and slides down into the orifice easily. Reinstall the locking collar and then the two phillips screws. Turn the choke until it clears the carburetor correctly. The plastic shroud tells you where to align it. Not critical unless you have the shroud and then you have to align it correctly. 22. Check the o-ring on the carburetor first and then on the heat shield. The one on the heat shield faces the engine and the one on the carburetor faces the heat shield. You need these to seal the intake. Dont install the shield backwards. Youll have two gaskets on one side and none on the other. 23. Reinstall carburetor using the longer of the two screws closest to the engine. Dont get the longer one outside. As it tightens it will crush the choke assy. 24. Replace the fuel inlet line. This is the one that goes to the upper connection on the shutoff valve. 25. Loosen drain screw on bottom of bowl. 26. Draw suction on the smaller vacuum hose. Keep doing it until fuel comes out the drain hose. Tighten the drain screw and keep vacuum on the lower line until no more fuel runs in the carburetor. Usually 30 seconds does it. This fills the bowl and keeps you from cranking so long when you first start the bike. 27. Replace the vacuum hose to the intake manifold. 28. Reinstall the throttle slider. There is a peg inside the barrel. There is a slot along the top to bottom of the barrel. Align and drop in the throttle. Screw cap tightly. 29. Reinstall air inlet tube from air box. Secure the ring retainer with the phillips screw. 30. Plug the choke assembly back into the wire harness. Watch the color code. Start bike and allow to warm completely. If the idle is too high unscrew the idle until desired speed is attained. 31. When completely warm adjust the airscrew in or out but no mare than a quarter turn until the highest idle is achieved. 32. Reset the idle. I just put the bike on the kickstand and watch for the rear wheel to turn. If it does the idle is too high. Too low and it will stall. Repeat the above steps until it runs smoothly and idles correctly. 33. Reinstall the side covers. 34. Reach around and pat yourself on the back for a job well done. scoot safely" Unfortunatly most people clean their carburetors only to find that their rusty tank is clogging up the carburetor again. Clean your tank. |
All information was collected from
http://freshlinks.net/aspforum/display_forum.asp?fid=179
Thanks everyone who contributed!